Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Erika F Costa, Wagner V Magalhães, Luiz C Di Stasi, Erika F Costa, Wagner V Magalhães, Luiz C Di Stasi

Abstract

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Keywords: cosmetic; herbal formulations; natural products; skin anti-aging.

Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
Extracellular matrix components (ECM) and skin elasticity. HA, Hyaluronic Acid; MMPs, Metalloproteinases; TIMPs, Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinases. The illustration was drawn using BioRender software.
Figure 2
Figure 2
TGF-β signaling pathway. AP-1, factor activating protein 1; SBE, SMAD-binding elements; TGF-β, transforming growth factor beta; TβRI, TGF-β type I receptor; TβRII, TGF-β type II receptor. The illustration was drawn using BioRender software.
Figure 3
Figure 3
Activation pathway of Nrf2 and the production of endogenous antioxidant molecules. ARE, antioxidant response element; GST, glutathione S-transferase; HO-1, heme oxygenase-1; NQO1, NAD(P)H: quinone acceptor oxidoreductase 1; Nrf2, nuclear erythroid 2-related factor. The illustration was drawn using BioRender software.
Figure 4
Figure 4
Synthesis of melanin. DHI, 5,6-dihydroxyindole; DHICA, DHI-2-carboxylic acid; l-DOPA, to l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine; TYR, tyrosinase; TYRP2, tyrosinase-related protein-2. The illustration was drawn using Biorender software.
Figure 5
Figure 5
Signaling pathway MITF expression. α-MSH, melanocyte-stimulating hormone; AC, adenylyl cyclase; ACTH, adrenocorticotropic hormone; ATP, adenosine triphosphate; cAMP, cyclic adenosine monophosphate; CREB, cAMP response element; GDP, guanosine diphosphate; GTP, guanosine triphosphate; MCR1, melanocyte-specific melanocortin-1receptor; MITF, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor; PKA, protein kinase A; POMC, pro-opiomelanocortin; TYR, tyrosinase; TYRP-1, tyrosinase-related protein-1; TYRP-2, tyrosinase-related protein-2. The illustration was drawn using Biorender software.
Figure 6
Figure 6
Mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway modulating mediators of the skin aging process. AP-1, activator protein 1; Nrf2, nuclear factor (erythroid-derived 2)-like 2; NF-κB, Nuclear factor-kappa B; MMP, metalloproteinases; NQO11, NADPH-quinone oxidoreductase 1; HO-1, heme oxygenase-1. The illustration was drawn using Biorender software.
Figure 7
Figure 7
Main natural compounds of plant origin with promising skin anti-aging properties. Chemical structures were drawn using ACD/ChemSketch software.

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